Not long back in time, anticipating challenging times during monsoons, Goa would voluntarily go into a hibernation of sorts.
Shacks – temporary structures on the beaches – would be dismantled, lodges and budget hotels would get busy with spring cleaning for the next season as tourist inflows would turn to a trickle, and as the ocean turned rough and tides scaled higher heights, fishermen would stay off fishing at the seas.
In Goa, fishing is banned during rainy season to allow stocks to replenish, restricting fishing to rivers and in other fresh water bodies.
Shacks – temporary structures on the beaches – would be dismantled, lodges and budget hotels would get busy with spring cleaning for the next season as tourist inflows would turn to a trickle.
The paddy fields would sway with fresh crops and would look like a mirror-patch from atop hills and farmers would waddle through the fields to tend them. For them, rains brought good tiding. Acre upon acre of land would get covered with long and thin green paddy blades swimming in the rain water.
Every household would get busy stocking up salted mackerels, shrimps, sting rays and other seafoods, cashew and palm feni and preparing spice-mixes and pickles to last them for the entire seasons.
The Goan shores and streets would be swept with funereal placidity, wrapped in a wintry calm. Luxury hotels and local markets would draw up enticing monsoon offers for tourists, not being able to cut ice with them.
As fierce rains, thunder and lightning would rage through the State, Goa would literally come to a screeching halt. As Goans savoured the tangy-spicy fish curry, recheado fish, parra, molho, balchao and other traditional delicacies, they would look out of their window or over their feni glass in the balcao (balcony), hoping for the rain-curfew or the rain-lockdowns to end; hoping for the rains to dry.
Not anymore…
Lately, all that has changed. Monsoon no longer drives Goa into hibernation or brings it to a screeching halt. On the contrary, Goa now swings into action during the rainy phase. Goans now want to feel raindrops on their face.
Today, there’s nothing ‘blues’ about the monsoon for them. They now resolutely believe in B J Thomas’ lyrics from the song Raindrops keep fallin’ on my head – “The blues they send to meet me. Won't defeat me”.
As locals don this attitude, tourists are obliging. For the past few years, Goa's beaches do not empty out in rains. Undeterred by the ferocious sea, tourists are flocking on the beaches, knowing very well the patrolling life guards will ensure their safety.
It’s another matter that many give a blind eye to the red flags noisily fluttering on the beach. Lifeguards struggle to keep them out of harm’s way as they let out joyful whoops every time the ocean’s watery whip lashes the rocks on the shores.
For the past few years, Goa's beaches do not empty out in rains. Undeterred by the ferocious sea, tourists are flocking on the beaches, knowing very well the patrolling life guards will ensure their safety.
A little distance away, the man behind the counter at the shack is in the thick of action. There’s an air of fuzzy feeling around him as he looks at the crowd at his temporary eating joint. Raindrop tourism was the best thing to have happened to him.
And ‘gaiety’ is a companion at every restaurant table with tourists digging into their food and sipping drinks as they watch the rain and the sea.
Cash registers at luxury hotels and hospitality businesses are also no longer falling silent during monsoon. They are all designing their packages around monsoon. They’ve figured out raindrop tourism and are weaving luring offers to cater to it.
The Goa tourism department has also jumped aboard the monsoon bandwagon, promoting festivals – Sao Joao, Sangodd, Chikhal Kalo, Bonderam and others – during this time and opening up low-risk waterfalls to tourists.
Everything in Goa assumes a surreal quality in the rains – mists hang over Western Ghats mountains, the waterfalls swell up and joyfully leap off cliffs spraying water on visitors, the treks and bike rides offer scenic views, the mischievous sun on the beach never tires of playing hide-and-seek and fairs, festivals and markets in the idyllic villages are a treat to all senses.
Tourists, pouring into the State to soak up Goa’s monsoons, have discovered this and they cannot have enough of it. And so, Goa does not take a break during rainy season anymore.