Jackfruit, a versatile Goan delicacy

The jackfruit tree belongs to the mulberry family and is native to the Konkan and Malabar regions. The name ‘jack’ is derived from the Malayalam – jakai or chaka – that was adopted as jaca by the Portuguese.

The Portuguese landed there in 1498 under the leadership of Admiral Vasco da Gama, who is reported to have traded up to Anjediva island, later belonging to the State of Goa, and now to the Indian Navy.

HOW IT’S USED

The earliest written record of the jackfruit in a European language is in 1563 by the Jewish botanist who lived in Goa, Garcia da Orta, after whom, the Panjim Municipal Garden is named.

Its botanical name is also steeped in history, mythology and fiction, all three of which find a high degree of convergence in recent times.

Perhaps the earliest use of the jackfruit tree was the use of its leaves as fodder for goats and cattle. Squirrels and monkeys ate the fruits of the jack and did not die.

It soon became acceptable feed for cattle during summer. Perhaps, there was a ‘Prodigal Son’ like event, and human beings ventured to eat the fruit. Now, it is all the rage as are fried chips made from mature, but unripe, Jack.

Vacuum fried and vacuum dried jackfruit carpels are also available these days.

The seed is a wonderful source of gluten-free starch which enables gluten-intolerant persons to enjoy a roti with Indian curry, especially since rice contains gluten, too.

Today, the jackfruit is poised to be, not just food for the human race, but also as food for the gods. Modak, the favourite food of the Hindu goa, Ganesha or Ganapati, is increasingly being made of jackfruit pulp in the capital city of all Ganesh celebrations, Mumbai.

The original producers call themselves Sindhusfurti, and live up to their name by encouraging the development of value addition for the fruits of Sindhudurg district in the Konkan region of neighbouring Maharashtra.

Currently, there are a number of brands making jackfruit modak.

The jackfruit is easy to share. One does not even need a knife to cut open a rosall jackfruit which is simply called ponnos in the South Goa. The entire west coast and Western Ghats are home to the jackfruit.

It is available in plenty this season and is the traditional gift for Sao Joao revellers, who jump into well on June 24, annually.

Call the feast Catholic or pagan or whatever, it is celebrated with great pomp and fervour across the old conquest talukas along the Arabian Sea and its estuarine reaches along the major rivers.

Goa has chosen the jackfruit for development in North Goa under the ‘One District, One Product’ (ODOP) program under the Government of India PM-FME program.

A multi-fruit processing unit has been set up in Pale-Velguem area of Bicholim taluka and the processing of jackfruit into pulp, chips and other products has begun in earnest under the brand name of GoVan.

ICAR-CCARI, Old Goa, has published brochures and booklets with recipes, too. These are available free of cost at the ICAR library at Old Goa.  Try them out; they will open up a whole new world of flavours for jackfruit-lovers.

(The author is the former Chairman of the GCCI Agriculture Committee, CEO of Planter's Choice Pvt Ltd, Additional Director of OFAI and Garden Superintendent of Goa University, and has edited 18 books for Goa & the Konkan)