Ashvem, a ward of Mandrem village in North Goa, is keeping pace with tourism trends, and from a quaint village averse to receiving tourists, has transformed into one that accommodates the needs of its visitors.
The village opened its doors to the outside world by initially renting out rooms that soon evolved into cottages. Today, the village boasts of four expensive restaurants, all within 200 metres and with the best possible view of the sea.
Ashvem boasts of two retail liquor shops and has rent-a-bike and car operators. The roads are narrow, and it slows the flow of traffic. Parking can be a problem, especially when all decide to visit the beach at the same time.
“We have rented our rooms to Indians – some work from here and others in hotels nearby. Foreigners have stopped coming to stay here. A few old guests drive down for a swim,” admits Florence Fernandes.
“We had many Indians staying here during COVID, and after that we have rich Indians who have bought some properties facing the beach and built restaurants,” admits Inacio.
A look at the menu card outside indicates that meals for two will setback a couple by a few thousand rupees. The food is not Goan but more pan Asian and Indo-Continental.
“We have chains in many cities and are not really worried about marketing, because our clients follow us. They know what to expect when with us, and we know what they want,” says the manager of one of the new restaurants.
“None of the guests stay close by, but they like to spend their evening in privacy, and that is one of our offerings,” he adds.
“There was a time when most people used to come to the beach by bikes or small cars. These days, we see high-end cars parked in the area. Unlike the time when Russians used to stay here, there is not much noise now at night. The music played is not noise,” says Succorina, who had claimed to be a victim of loud music in the past.
If Ashvem on the coast is seeing a change, the hinterland has started breathing again after the arrival of the first charter with guests from Russia. Many Russians have moved closer to the forest, staying far away from human reality.
“The Russians who stay in the forest normally prefer to stay for a few months. They are those for whom life begins at night when the village has gone to sleep. They are the non-interfering type,” confesses Alfred.
Ashvem is one of the best beach destinations in North Goa because the waters are calm, and the sea water that breaks in to resemble a creek is the favourite of parents with young children.
“It is very shallow and levelled over here. Since there are no waves, it is easy for the children to try and learn to swim. This is a sort of swimming pool in the sea with a mild current,” says Indra as she oversees her two kids paddling.
Once a village that produced the best coconut and caju feni, the locals today survive on tourism with most letting out their rooms or cottages.
“Earlier, when the English first came here, it was nice. They were like family. Things have changed now with our youngsters moving out and many selling their places,” says Assis, as he laments that now no one is capable of climbing the coconut trees to derive toddy to make feni.
And as feni production has diminished in the village, Ashvem has now become more an attraction for tourists.