Just before the sun sets at Galgibaga, on the southern coast of Goa, a family from Britain hits the waters to beat the summer heat that has driven most international tourists away.
“We got our visa late, but that didn’t make us change our plans. This beach (Galgibaga) is unique because unlike other beaches, it has not been trampled by development,” says Maria, as she prepares her four-year-old son to get into the water.
Galgibaga beach, like Agonda a few kilometers away, and Morjim in North Goa, has been declared a turtle nesting site, and is one place with no blemish on turtle care.
Unlike the turtle guards in Morjim, the guards at Galgibaga are in uniform all day. “The uniform helps us instruct picnickers, during the day, not to play loud music,” explains a turtle guard.
Reaching Galgibaga beach can be tedious because the 200 m road to the beach accommodates just one vehicle at a time.
“People have to park below as parking is restricted near the beach,” explains Santosh, who runs the only shop selling essentials.
Just behind the sand dunes are five homestays, or beach huts, that provide accommodation to tourists, foreigners or Indians seeking to live away from the noise normally associated with tourism.
“Most of the huts will be demolished by May 1. Just two rooms will be available thereafter. The air conditioned room costs Rs 2,000, and the other Rs 500 less,” admits Rosy, the owner of one of the homestays within proximity of the beach.
If the beaches in Mandrem attract tourists because of the coastline, Galgibaga beach has a coast that kisses the hill before entering inland.
“Our guests are normally return guests and people who enjoy their solitude,” says Suresh Pagi, who sells tender coconuts just metres away from the beach.
This is true. “There are restaurants that provide good food and the room we stay in has provisions to cook. When we need to go to town, which is seldom, we hire a bike,” says an artist who sought anonymity.
The artist and her husband like Galgibaga because it, “allows them to enjoy their privacy. The beach is safe, the people are like family, and there is absolutely no noise.”
Agonda and Galgibaga are two beaches in Goa that have churches practically touching the sand dunes.
Whilst Agonda has seen development and a few foreigners losing their lives under mysterious circumstances, church bells still ring happy tunes in Galgibaga.
“Our beach is still virgin and clean because it has been declared a turtle nesting site, and hence, there are no shacks anywhere around. Just a handful of restaurants on top of the sand dunes and some huts for people to stay,” admits Marianne as she bounces back the ball to her colleague.
“We come to play in the evenings with snacks and drinks and normally return home after sunset,” adds Marianne.
“Most locals come with their two-wheelers as parking is a problem near the beach. Normally, Indian tourists come in taxis just to have a look or explore the beach,” admits Lancelot.
“For me, this is the best beach. It is so tranquil and the walk leaves me with such a peaceful feeling. This is nature, and hopefully commercialisation will not swallow it up,” hopes Shruti and her colleague, both studying at the NIT in Cuncolim.
As night begins to envelope Galgibaga with its colour, the distinct sound of birds chirping indicates another visit to a beach that is still natural.