The sand at Patnem Beach wears a crimson yellow tan as the kitchens of the many restaurants lined along the periphery of the beach get busy. The sun has set, the night is still young, and for the foreign tourists seated at the tables, Goa cannot be replicated.
For a change, there are not many domestic tourists around the place and not many from Russia either, because the old tourists have decided to come early and be the first to set the season rolling in this quaint village in South Goa.
“The season has not fully taken off, but we are happy to see many guests return early. The English have come and so have some Germans. The Russians are there, and we expect the Indians to arrive for Diwali,” discloses Ulhas, who runs a 15-room hotel with a restaurant on the edge of the beach.
“Eleven of my rooms are full – each air-conditioned double room sells for Rs 1,500 – and I expect the rest to be full by tomorrow. We do not expect the Indian crowd during the season,” admits Ulhas.
As one takes a stroll on the beach, English can be heard spoken at different tables along with soft retro music playing. The breaking waves lend a soothing atmosphere to the evening.
As Isabel walks past a table, she is called out to by an English couple having dinner. “Sweetheart,” says the lady to Isabel. “We need to book a tour for Mapusa this Friday.”
Isabel resolves the matter quickly, and it becomes evident that like her, there are many Indian girls offering industry-related services to foreigners. “I have been living around here since the Pandemic and offer travel assistance,” says Isabel as she moves towards another restaurant.
“This village has changed a lot over the last few years. It was quiet at first, with just two restaurants, when we first came. Different cuisines are now available, and there are more rooms available to stay,” shares John, for whom Patnem is the last haven of peace in Goa.
“North Goa is a mess. It’s noisy and even the shops seem to be managed by Indians. There is little of Goa left there, unlike this village,” says John, as he relishes some palm feni.
“The beach is best early in the morning with not a soul around. I spend most of the day on the beach. We have just arrived, and we like it this way for now,” reveals John’s friend, May.
Spending time at Patnem Beach is relaxing, but reaching the spot is a nightmare due to parking issues for four-wheelers.
“The Tourism Department should install signboards indicating there is no parking near the beach as tourists who come here have to, then, reverse their vehicles, and that can be tedious,” laments a local, Gabriel.
The food at restaurants on the beach is mellow – less Goan spice and more continental, with chicken being the best bite on many plates. Chicken with mashed potatoes, or sandwiches stuffed with veggies is the call of the evening.
“Though you have come early to check how the season has started, it will not be wrong to admit that it is better than what we expected. These are good days, and to start this way, is indication of better times,” Vinod tells GT Digital, as he sits and chats with other rickshaw drivers.
As the night gets older, the tables on the beach begin to be occupied and the music switches from retro to reggae with expectations of a smooth 2024 season for tourism stakeholders at Patnem.