Foreigner, Indian or local, it really does not matter who you are at Betalbatim beach in South Goa because this is one place where the warmth of the sand, sea and sun welcomes all.
Like many beaches in South Goa, the landscape to Betalbatim beach – ensconced between Colva and Majorda – takes the visitor through a journey of Goa that tells a story of the past.
Fields, areas of wetlands and cashew groves greet the eyes before the sand dunes put a full stop on the way forward for vehicles. At the entrance of the road, a local body board advises people to leave the beach before 7.30 pm.
“The notice is just to warn lovers who hangout on a part of the beach that is called lovers' beach,” observes Assis Fernandes, who guards the cashew plantation with a sickle. “Safety is an issue with the number of migrant residents,” adds Assis.
Betalbatim beach, according to locals, is divided into three segments – lovers beach, sunset beach and Nanu beach. “Despite being between Majorda and Colva beaches, the flow of visitors is not much because the old access road is still maintained,” confesses Assis.
Each segment of the beach physically describes the names assigned, with lovers enjoying their space at lovers' point, sunset revellers occupying vantage position, and the rest just enjoying the sea and shacks.
The lovers' point, at the beach, hosts a lot of local as well as Indian tourists celebrating their wedlock in Goa. It is a place that offers a quick, cozy cuddle with inhibited movement of the body. The shrubs on the sand dunes narrate a story of their own.
Saina covers her face with a scarf, but her friend Robson thinks, “There is no better place than the beach to express love. If outsiders can enjoy our beaches, why can’t we?” he asks.
Betalbatim beach is today a destination for a number of British tourists, a majority being pensioners, who put up in a resort nearby, but spend most of their day in shacks.
“The weather is lovely, the food is tasty and cheap, and the booze is good, and that is what helps us remain out on the beach the whole day,” says 70 plus Mark, from Birmingham, who is on his first trip to Goa.
“We return to the hotel after sunset, freshen up and dine, dance and sing in the hotel before we call it a day. Goa is a tranquil place to be in,” says Mark’s wife as she rattles of her plans of visiting the flea market in Anjuna.
“There have been Indian customers coming here since the time of the Pandemic, but we are now seeing a lot of British tourists. The crowd at the resort behind is good, and that benefits us as many drop by during the day,” says shack owner, Rock D’Silva, as he has his lunch around 4 pm.
Two shacks are permitted on Betalbatim beach and with two hotels at a distance from the beach, shack owners have no reason to complain. “You see a lot of English flags because we are expecting a lot of tourists from the UK this season,” explains Francis.
To a foreigner, a walk on Betalbatim beach is a stroll through serenity; to an Indian, it is a walk into oblivion; and to a Goan, it is romance on sand.