There are evenings when, as Goans freshen up after their siesta with a cup of tea, the streets of the village come alive with the sound of moving motorbikes. All move towards one destination – an open ground on top of a sand dune.
On both ends of the ground are goal posts. And, held at those posts are two bulls, each waiting for a faceoff, which is a 'bullfight', known as dhirio in Konkani.
Bullfights are banned in Goa, just as matka is, but the truth is that both have betting value.
Bullfights are a tradition of Goa, whereas matka is a form of gambling that infiltrated through the State's borders. Both are held pretty openly, and it is common knowledge among all, including those at the top who patronise the sport.
Under one goal post stands a bull, named Vitori, trying to match his strength against the bull at the other post, called Garbo, and thousands of people from across Goa all set to watch the duel.
Money is seen exchanging hands before the fight, and is surely not in hundreds or thousands. People with wads of Rs 500 currency notes wage bets on whether Garbo is going to beat Vitori or whether the latter will make the former scurry to safety.
The winner of a fight is decided on which of the two bulls runs away from the arena. They start by locking their heads, each trying to push the other back, with the crowd jeering or cheering them on.
As the fight starts, some supporters rush towards their bull cajoling or screaming support and barking instructions whilst the rest sit with fingers crossed.
Errant supporters – those in close proximity to the fighting bulls – are deterred by sand being flung on them and sometimes even whipped by twigs.
“I placed my bets on both as they have won their last three fights. I put a bit extra on Vitori because he is from my village,” Jerome mutters to Eldrid, as the fight enters its second minute.
To many, there is nothing much in the fight except to know which among the two will run away first, because that is when the winner is known. The betting stakes are distributed and the party begins for the winners while the losers wait for another fight.
For many, the bullfight is not just about which bull is going to win, but an occasion to make thousands, to jeer, to conjure the most explicit of foul words, and after the mayhem on the ground, leave together for a drink at the village bar.
Bullfights are illegal, but the traditions showcased during a fight are for dhirio lovers the essence of Goa and that is why thousands gather to enjoy the camaraderie otherwise unseen on the streets.
The expletives heard during a bullfight tell a story of Goa of the past, the present and the future because that is the sound of Goa wanting to be heard by a Goan around the world as detailed by Florence, broadcasting the fight live to his friend in the United kingdom.
“There is live betting going on in the UK, and I am doing this for a friend. They show it on a big screen somewhere there. And, just like here, there too betting is on,” says Florence, admitting he is paid a few thousand rupees for his work.
As the loser runs away, a bettor is heard screaming, “Garbo has run into the sea, and those who laid their wages on Vitori have won. It’s time to have a good drink.”
As the sun sets, members of team Vitori can be seen visiting different roadside crosses to light candles.
Despite being banned, matka can be seen being played everywhere, even within less than a hundred metres of important establishments. Bullfights that have been banned still take place, though not so blatantly.
Betting is common in both, but it is the tradition that gets hoofed up during a bullfight that signals the difference.
(All names have been changed)