The sea is rough, but the sizzling summer heat turns the waters inviting. The monsoon is knocking on Goa’s doors, but the lure of the State still sees holidayers – mostly domestic tourists – lapping hospitality.
“We love Goa in the rains. I may not like swimming, but being on the beach during the rains is an experience of its own. I was in Goa last year and have come back with more friends this time,” reveals Vinit, as he enjoys a beer and chat with friends, while on the horizon, the sun begins to kiss goodnight to buskers on Velsao beach.
The southern coastal belt has an uninterrupted run from Galgibaga to Velsao, where the rocks on either ends of the beach, break the thread of continuity.
At the tip of Galgibaga, the rocks break the waves, allowing the water to smoothly flow in like a rivulet, whilst at Velsao, the sea water merges with spring water that flows from the hill, and therein, is unparalleled beauty.
The water at the point where sea water converges with spring water, at Velsao beach, can be figuratively described as the point where cold and hot water can be felt – the cold being the water flowing from the spring. Literally, the cold can be seen caressing the hot.
“Sea water rises right up to the sand dunes during the monsoons, and that is why we notice sand erosion. During the high tide, water submerges the shore right up to Utorda beach and beyond,” says Romeo, whose family is in the fishing business.
With all the boats pulled up to the sand dunes, and most of the labourers having returned to their native places for the monsoon break – June 1 to July 31 – Romeo and his friends enjoy watching tourists and locals trying to beat the heat.
“Velsao beach is still virgin and that explains the rush here in the evenings. The scene will change in a few years as it has done at other beaches. There is just one bar and restaurant, here, and yet, so many tourists,” says Agostinho as he removes his t-shirt.
That Velsao is hooking newcomers because of the serenity it offers is reflected through the words of Smirti, from North India, who says, “We first settled in North Goa. But, it is so noisy now that we have sold our house in Assagao and have moved to the south.”
“I come here for my walk every evening, and I leave before it gets dark because this is one beach that is not lit and I think that is what makes it magical," she says.
"It appears that the sand is getting eroded on this beach, but it is soft to my bare feet,” she adds.
As the sun sets and night steps in, torch lights can be seen bobbing on the sand; the hoot of a train passing a few meters away can be heard; an illuminated Birla can be seen on one end, and on the other, a distant gleam of beach lights.
“Once the rains start, it will not be possible to get down to the beach because the waters come up to the bottom of the steps,” explains Josefina as she stands at the top of the stairs built to give access to the beach.
"The water recedes during low tide, but pockets of water remain here and there,” she mentions.
Except for tourists who can be seen coming with their booze to drink on the beach, most locals leave the place by 8 pm.
Velsao beach then reflects a haze of black beauty with the waves crashing, resembling the sounds of footsteps on the sands of time.
