Goan cuisine is a melting pot of influences that symbolise the State’s rich history of trade and diverse cultural interactions. The diverse cultural interactions or exchanges may have played a role in shaping its cuisine.
The Portuguese presence in Goa for centuries undeniably left a lasting impact on Goan cuisine. Dishes like vindaloo, sorpotel, xacuti and bebinca are indeed some of the most delicious testaments to this rich culinary exchange or influence.
In any Goan home if you inquire where you have learned to cook a particular dish, pat comes the answer, "I learned this from my grandmother." It's a common and heart-warming tradition in Goa to attribute recipes to grandmothers, who are seen as the keepers of culinary heritage and history, passing down generations of family recipes.
This Saturday, June 29, Porvorim-based Kreative Kollective is hosting food writer and critic Odette Mascarenhas, who will talk about her decade-long research and compilation of what might be considered the encyclopedia of Goan cuisine – The Culinary Odyssey of Goa.
Speaking on how her book came about, Mascarenhas says, "We are so used to saying the recipes we cook come from our grandmothers. But do we know where these recipes came from? This question made me delve deeper and so here I am with The Culinary Odyssey of Goa."
Mascarenhas says the rich cultural fabric of Goan food is unmistakable, may it be Hindu or Catholic. "Our grandmothers worked tirelessly to churn out some of the best dishes and they were always ready to experiment with the spices," she adds.
Over the years, Goan food has evolved and is today more diverse and accepting because local (both Hindu and Catholic) and Portuguese traditions blended well, along with influences from Muslim and other traders.
Mascarenhas says one can see Hindu influences in the Catholic cuisine. "Also, we have been so open and accepting in our kitchens. We have taken things like the green masala which has come from Muslim homes. The use of potatoes in our preparations has come from Bengal," she describes.
"The alle belle, an original Luso-impacted dish, came in from France (known as crepes), but we originally had it happening in Goa. We used to make crepes of rice flour because rice was principally what we used to grow," she mentions.
"Are we aware of the two oldest curries - The fish curry and the xacuti - that Goa is so proud of? Are you aware of how or what the stories are behind those dishes? This is what I will delve into at the Kreative Kollective this Saturday," informs Mascarenhas.
Are we aware of the two oldest curries - The fish curry and the xacuti - that Goa is so proud of? Are you aware of how or what the stories are behind those dishes? This is what I will delve into at the Kreative Kollective this Saturday
Odette Mascarenhas
Kreative Kollective is the brainchild of Jane D'Souza, a portrait photographer, based in Goa. It was launched in January, this year, to create a space where people of different professions could come together and learn something new without getting into the rigid structure of a workshop.
"Another avowed objective of Kreative Kollective is to bridge the gap between local Goans and people who have moved here and call the State their home," D'Souza says, and adds, "We can certainly learn from each other and also examine and build Goa while still preserving the essence of what it stands for."
Speaking about the event on June 29, she says excitedly, "Everything I thought I knew about Goan cuisine was turned on its head the day I met Odette. I knew she would have interesting stories to tell. Through our conversations planning the meetup, the main thing that stood out to me was Odette saying 'Everyone cooks great Goan dishes. When you ask them where they learned it, they will tell you it's their grandmother's recipe. What I wanted to know was where did their grandmother learn to cook?'"
D'Souza was born and brought up in Goa, but moved to Mumbai for seven years. She returned in 2012 to pursue photography. And at Kreative Kollective, she empowers people to share their stories, talents and inspire others.
DETAILS
WHAT: Talk by food writer and critic Odette Mascarenhas
TOPIC: Where do your grandmother's recipes come from
WHEN: June 29, 2024
WHERE: Ginger Hotel, Panjim
TIME: 4.30 pm to 6.30 pm
