There was a time in Goa, when one entered a taverna, that a torashir (slice of raw mango) was served, along with a shot of caju, and then, the evening gossip would roll.
As the taverna evolved into a bar, so did the torashir as an accompaniment and the caju as a drink.
But sometimes, you can still get that old-time feel. Nestled by the side of a road that leads to Cavelossim and the villages on the way, stands a bar and restaurant that not only serves torashir during the season, but keeps alive the spirit of old through its food and drinks that bring to life quaint habits of village life.
The concept of a bar and restaurant that would keep alive village traditions was sown during the Covid-19 pandemic when Jassy Singh, a partner in the restaurant, married to a Goan, had to relocate to Goa.
“When we were asked to report back to our company, we opted to start life by living our dreams, and 'Torashir' is one of those dreams. Goa is one of the best places for restaurants because its cuisine blends with its ambience,” says Jassy, who knows the line between dining and dancing.
If the settings at Torashir give you the look of a village, the food appears to stem from an experimental village kitchen.
If the settings at Torashir give you the look of a village, the food appears to stem from an experimental village kitchen where the aroma of pork – specifically crafted through the pork thali served – tells you the story of the pork and a local of the good old times.
The pork thali, served at the restaurant in the afternoon, consists of Vindalho, Admas, Pork Amsol, Sausage Chilly Fry, papad, pickle, cabbage, salad and rice – all this for Rs 500.
Jassy is married to a lady from Cuncolim, while his business partner, Guilman D’Costa, who is from Margao, believes he can set the notes for Jassy to orchestrate with a bunch of boys whose hearts leave most clients with a smile.
“The menu was set by a chef called Jesus Leitao, who trained the staff,” discloses Jassy, as his chef, Milburn Froilano Fernandes from Loutolim, mixes a concoction of spices to keep the guests' palate tickling.
“We cook local,” he says reassuringly.
“It is nice to hear a guest’s appreciation. Food is about making a person happy or at least seeing them go back satisfied and that is why we try to grind simplicity in our cooking,” assures Chef Fernandes.
The interiors of Torashir are rustic, making you feel one with the ambience of a village despite the class in cuisine and bar.
The bar at the restaurant is stirred by Cheston Fernandes from Agonda who thinks that ‘the job of a barman is to get the customer to smile before the first drink is served’.
Despite kissing a busy road that connects to the southern coast, the restaurant has lived off the lungs of locals.
“Locals spend more (money) than outsiders and they party better. We have tourists coming even from the north for a taste of Goa and specially our pork thali,” admits Singh for whom client satisfaction is a medley.
Torashir, on the road to Varca from the Benaulim junction, is a fusion of music in the kitchen, with musician partner Guilman providing the village strands, Milburn picking the spices, Cheston mixing the alcohol and Jassy taking the ambience to the client.
The place is not just about pork, the Beef Rolado is worth driving a distance, the bartender's Whisky Truffle is a dessert worth for the road, and the Salted Pork an excuse for another visit.
A few hours of fine dining, drinking and finishing with a dessert, would set a couple back by Rs 2,000. Who wouldn’t do it for a slice of raw mango!