Traditions and beliefs entwine at the Shirgaon 'zatra'

Want to learn more of the 'dhonds', mogras and betts associated with the Lairai Zatra in Goa? Read on
FOR DARSHAN: Wearing colourful dhotis, the 'Dhonds' at the Lairai zatra.
FOR DARSHAN: Wearing colourful dhotis, the 'Dhonds' at the Lairai zatra. Photo: Sandeep Desai.
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On Sunday, all roads led to North Goa’s Shirgaon in Bicholim taluka where thousands of devotees flocked to celebrate Shri Lairai Devi zatra, known to be the biggest event in the Hindu calendar in Goa.

MOGRA FLOWERS 

In the build up to the zatra, the Dhonds, who are the disciples of the goddess Larai, follow a strict vegetarian diet for about a month.

On the day of the zatra, dressed in colourful dhotis, the Dhonds offer garlands of mogra (Jasmine) buds to the deity, who is said to be fond of these flowers. Some Dhonds even wear it around their necks as a mark of reverence. 

IN REVERENCE: Devotees take 'devdarshan' around the Homkundh.
IN REVERENCE: Devotees take 'devdarshan' around the Homkundh.

COLOURFUL ATTIRE 

At this unique festival, the Dhonds carry a bett (staff) with them, often decorated with ribbons and woollen threads. They come from different walks of life, age groups and areas, some even from the neighbouring states.

There are visitors from outside the State. Hari, who travelled with his wife and father from Karwar for the zatra, said they don’t mind the travel and distance. “We are staunch believers of this goddess and the four-hour drive doesn't matter. We stay here for the night,” he added.

FAITH CALLS: The crowd inside the temple during the 'zatra'.
FAITH CALLS: The crowd inside the temple during the 'zatra'.

The Dhonds welcome the deity with an energetic, high-octane dance, waving the betts to the beats of the dhol chanting ‘Lairai Mata ki Jai’. Later, after the midnight hour and in the wee hours they walk barefoot through a bed of burning charcoal with the bett in their hands.

HOLY PROCESSION

Devotees throng to the temple, perform devadarshan, pray around the Homkundh (burning wood) and take a holy dip in the Dhondacho Tali, a pond in the temple premise.

SPIRITUAL CLEANSING: The 'Dhonds' take a holy dip in the 'Dhondachi Tali'.
SPIRITUAL CLEANSING: The 'Dhonds' take a holy dip in the 'Dhondachi Tali'.

There are people at the festival venue selling betts, starting at a price of Rs 500. A seller said, “These betts are made from a plant which is usually found in the wild. When they are fresh, they are intertwined with each other and dried. They are sold for the religious dance at the festival to welcome the goddess.”

 7 SISTERS AND ONE BROTHER 

Lairai Devi is known to have other siblings -- Devi Mahamaya in Mayem, Devi Mirabai, also known as Milagres Saibinn in Mapusa, Devi Lairai in Shirgaon, Devi Morjai in Morjim, Devi Anjadeep on Anjediva island, Devi Kelbai in Mulgao and one brother, Khetoba in Vainguinim.

SHOPPING SPREE: People visit stalls at the fair.
SHOPPING SPREE: People visit stalls at the fair.

COMMUNAL HARMONY 

Catholics also participate in the Lairai Zatra to pay homage to Milagres Saibinn. During the zatra, the oil from Saibinn is sent to Shirgaon and during the feast of Milagres Saibinn in Mapusa, garlands of mogras are sent from Shirgaon.

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