Bannale, or the English version, Benaulim, is quite a favourite with a number of tourists, who come for the quiet and peace this seaside village has to offer.
Benaulim is known for its famous legend of Lord Parshurama shooting his arrow in the sea which landed in Banahalli. ‘Ban’ in Sanskrit means arrow and ‘Halli’ in Kannada is village.
Like this legend, Benaulim has many stories, but very few know the legend of the well of love, known as Moga Baim (well of love).
There are many stories associated with this well, but this one is interesting. Eighty-two-year-old Remedios Fernandes, who has been married for 40 years, met his wife at Moga Baim, fell in love and has since lived a happy life.
Moga Baim plays, or rather played, an important part in the lives of the Bannalekars (people of Benaulim), so significant that it is now the name of a bus stop and used as a reference in the postal address.
Ask the locals why it was given such a unique name and most will have a blank look on their faces, while some will honestly say they don’t know as that’s what it’s been called for many years.
Imagine this – a time when there is no TV and the internet has not been invented. All there exists is a newspaper and you don’t know what else to read.
The entertainment is limited to stories narrated and gossip whispered, the music mostly available in churches and some on the radio, with access to mandos and dulpods only to the affluent.
But then a good hearted landlord or the bhatkar decided to host in his home dance parties that were organised by the locals.
“Every year in the 1960s the landlords of the house used to organise discos,” says Remedios. These were dances which went on till late in the night at this house in Benaulim, which has Indo-Portuguese architecture.
Over the years the dance became popular among the locals. The numbers kept increasing.
Remedios Fernandes
“The house had two huge halls where dancing would take place. They used to play recorded music and people used to dance. I along with a few friends used to organise it at that time. Over the years the dance became popular among the locals. The numbers kept increasing,” says Remedios, as he shuffles a pack of cards.
And he continues with excitement. “To accommodate more people, we had to shift the dance outside the house. So we would put up mollam (pandal) outside. Back then we didn’t have any dances like these. People would wait for Christmas to go for a dance.”
The house, today uninhabited, still has a massive well in front. “There is a huge well that is outside the house, where we used to put the mollams. After the dance, people would go outside and sit around the well. Once there was a girl and a boy who fell in love there. Many courtships started at this dance and it was treated as a meeting point for young people. Over the years, everyone started calling it Moga Baim – a well where people fell in love,” says Remedios as he blushes and admits that he too danced there with his vokol (bride) there.
While currently lying in a dilapidated state, the description of the Moga Baim as a popular destination hints at its potential for revival. Perhaps, a local movement or initiative could restore it to its former glory.
The Moga Baim house may be a part of the past, but it clearly holds a special place in the memory of the locals and serves as a reminder of the power of human connection and the enduring legacy of love.
And for those who want to, out of curiosity, it is still possible to visit Benaulim and try to know stories surrounding Moga Baim. See if you get lucky.