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The village of Reis Magos, on a by-lane towards Nerul, once offered a lovely, lonely drive that provided an exhilarating glimpse of the sea meeting the River Mandovi and of the capital city Panjim on the opposite bank of the river.
A drive to Reis Magos was a journey into village life, one that started with the view of the church dedicated to the Three Kings, a small spring nearby, a jail and the vast expanse of sea. Slowly, homestays made their way to it and today the village is home to many from outside Goa who have made the village their second home.
“First, uncle’s was the only bar along the river front. As time passed, a few more bars by the river came up and with the rise in real estate prices many sold their land and some moved to the UK,” says 60-plus Esmeralda, as she stands watching the monsoon waves crashing on the rocks.
She turns back and says, “many of us have built rooms and given them out on a monthly basis to people working in the casinos. Years back, we used to charge Rs 5000 a month with breakfast for a room. Now, the same rooms are going out for Rs 10,000 or more.”
Reis Magos is not just known for selling its landscape but also as a tourist destination because of the fort that, after its management changed hands, has been restored to become a wedding photography destination and for sightseeing.
“It is not as spectacular as the Aguada jail but there are nice things to see in this fort. As an artist, I think it has been well conserved though I believed a lot more could be done,” says Renuka as she sips tea at a kiosk outside the fort.
“The beauty of the fort stems from its location. The view one gets of the sea, the capital city and the village is awesome. Once in, it is a painter’s paradise,” thinks Renuka.
Change has also brought in more traffic. “Movement of traffic has been better since the roads have been widened. It tends to get a bit boisterous along the riverfront at night but nothing can rob one of the breathtaking views,” says Xavier, who works in one of the many restaurants along the road.
Reis Magos hosts the Kegdevelim Beach which is frequented by locals and people from neighbouring villages. “We normally go for a dip as the topography of the place is such that swimming per se is not possible,” says Vincent, who at 70 has stopped fishing along the river.
Coco beach too has seen changes. “People still go fishing from Coco beach, which is now a spot from where they start dolphin trips. Boys are normally sourced from outside to help in fishing as most of our children do other work or just supervise,” rues Vincent.
People still go fishing from Coco beach, which is now a spot from where they start dolphin trips. Boys are normally sourced from outside to help in fishing as most of our children do other work or just supervise.
Vincent, a Goan resident.
“There is a demand for dolphin trips during the season and we normally get domestic tourists wanting to go out and watch dolphins swimming from close quarters,” says Vincent.
The river front has for long been a spot for lovers to exchange pleasantries and that tradition continues, whether it is sunny or rainy. “There is no fixed time to spend with the one you love. Couples come all through the day and bask in the beauty of the place,” says Joseph as he hopes a fish bites his bait.
Fishing, good food, offered by three restaurants along the sea front, and romance by the waves are three signposts that Reis Magos will always be remembered for.