The monsoon cobwebs appear to have been dusted off the southern coast from Varca to Cavelossim, with night life on the belt adding a special glow to shops, restaurants and, most importantly, the tourists strolling by.
Tourism in South Goa is in cycle motion – the cash counters are jingling, taxi drivers are on the move, material to build shacks has been lined-up along beaches and there is mixed enthusiasm wafting in the air – it is definitely picking up steam.
In a bar, at the entrance of Cavelossim, sits Francis with two of his friends, all three mouthing the sausages from the plate before them, as they await their repeat order.
“Business should be good this year. It was not bad during the rains, though the arrival of more foreign tourists would be better,” Francis, who operates a taxi, says, in between bites of sausage.
Tourism in South Goa, compared to the north, had a late start though it did not lag far behind in terms of foreign currency flow with Foreign Individual Tourists (FITs) preferring the south over the north.
“We had FITs and then a load of charters. Things were chaotic at one stage, with some of us making two trips to Mapusa market or the flea market in a day. I had guests who would go every week to these two markets,” recollects Francis.
“The two markets are still popular now, but the demand amongst Indian guests is not so high. Indian men are impatient compared to foreigners, who used to let their wives do the shopping as they drank in a restaurant,” explains Mathew, who apart from having a taxi, rents two bikes.
Mobor beach, at 8 pm, is a story of solitude, except for the lone Indian couple taking their pet dog for a walk.
“There have been no incidents of attacks on the beach, but one can never say,” says Martina as her husband helps her close their small shop close to the beach.
“We opened last week, and business is slow, but not bad. A few foreigners, plenty of tourists from North India and retired Indian couples for whom Cavelossim has become second home,” explains Martina.
The telltale signs of tourism are evident as one begins the drive to Cavelossim from the road that curves into Varca – from the junction that leads to Benaulim – with nice trendy restaurants awaiting customers.
Travellers from Margao to Cavelossim, at night, will encounter at least one decent restaurant along the way – actually one decent restaurant along all the four villages – Varca, Orlim, Carmona and Cavelossim – that could be worth a taste test.
The food may not be authentic Goan, but the menus are crafted to the taste of the tourists, with the Indian tourist being the priority. Most specialise in dressing chicken and mutton with Indian spices, whilst those closer to Cavelossim have fish as their mainstay.
From amongst the four villages, Varca stands out as a mini city with each shop stocked with the needs of all guests. And in one corner, stands a food cart that sells Goan cuisine, that also tastes affordability. A Mutton Paya Soup is not just a steal, but a favourite, too.
“You have to come here before 8 pm if you want to get something to eat. The snacks sold here are so tasty that even outsiders, settled in neighbouring villages, drop by,” says Yasmin.
Luxury resorts in South Goa have drawn top notch Indian weddings during the last two seasons and most hotels expect the trend to continue. With everyone looking for the big bucks, stakeholders like Francis and his friends, may not be wrong in ordering more sausages and another round of drinks.