During the Portuguese reign, farm labourers would stop at a shop dispensing alcohol and have a drink or two of country liquor accompanied by a bite of sautéed mango, before making their way back home. That shop was called a tavern.
Years down the line there still exist a few places in Goa where the name tavern can be seen but the habit has evolved.
“People used to come with their own coconut shells or my father used to keep some behind the counter. Caju or coconut feni was poured in the shells and after drinking customers used to take a bite of pickled mango and leave,” recollects Siddhesh Mhambrey who runs his father’s tavern in Corjuem, Aldona.
The government stopped dispensing licenses for taverns after Liberation. Instead, country liquor (CL) shops were allowed to operate, though the name tavern did not fade away immediately.
Siddhesh does not remember when his father got the license to run his general store and tavern but says that the tavern license was converted to bar and restaurant on January 5, 1970.
Situated on the edge of the river on the banks of Corjuem island, Siddhesh’s board reads: M/s Janardan GP Mhambrey & Sons, General Merchant & Tavern since 1970.
“I did up the place in 2021 and started serving food thereafter,” says Siddhesh. He and his wife are the body and soul of the place that serves only four chicken dishes – cafreal, xacuti, chicken chilly Goan and dry fry – and all types of fish.
The Mhambrey Bar and Restaurant is a one of a kind, not just because of the taste of homemade food but because of the ambience and solitude in which one can satisfy the palette. Here mainly chappatis are served, instead of bread, and fish curry is available in the afternoon.
“In the olden days people who used to row the canoes from Aldona to Corjuem and vice versa and people going home from work used to frequent our bar and come to the store to pick up grocery items,” says Siddhesh as he repairs an old light lamp.
At one time, says Joao sitting at the ferry ramp, few families lived in Corjuem. Things have changed with the advent of people from outside Goa and the island has regained its soul.
“I am yet to find a place with the ambience and type of food served here. This is rustic Goa and I am happy this family is maintaining that aspect of our culture,” says Dr Jorson Da Costa who drives from Panjim to be one with nature.
“I have people from all over Goa and outsiders now living in and around Aldona coming for lunch and dinner. We keep our food 100 per cent Goan and me and my wife enjoy seeing the happiness in others,” observed Siddhesh.
Customers sit inside and on the benches outside during the day but in the evening all prefer to sit outdoors, overlooking the flowing river as the lights in the island turn off as night falls making taverns part of history.
Yet, the glow remains when Siddhesh’s memory goes on rewind mode and can be seen in his service and tasted through the food cooked by his wife. Some Goans, have simple ways of carrying forward traditions.