Goa's cuisine has been influenced by various cultures such as Arab, Portuguese, Brazilian, French, African etc Rohan Fernandes
Art & Culture

World Heritage Day: A guide to Goa's culinary heritage

Today, on World Heritage Day, let’s take a look at how Goa's cuisine is a delicious melting pot of various influences and cultures

Venita Gomes

Enjoyed Pork Vindaloo or Sorpotel with Goan pão or sanna? Or, ever wondered what makes Goan food so tangy and different from the cuisine in the rest of the country?

Well, here are some spicy facts about Goan cuisine that you probably didn't know. For one, Goa's food has been influenced by various cultures such as Arab, Portuguese, Brazilian, French, African and Malaysian.

From the humble pão to the fiery chourico to the tomatoes and potatoes, several important culinary essentials that are an integral part of the Goan kitchen, today, date back to the Portuguese era, which means the Portuguese brought them to Goa!

THE PORTUGUESE IMPACT

You can see the Luso influence on Goa, not only on the local food, but also in the places where the Portuguese had settled down and where the missionaries had spent time.

The Portuguese brought about significant changes in Goa's cuisine, which can be seen in the food habits of the people, especially the Catholic community in Goa.

The fiery 'chourico' was brought to Goa by the Portuguese

MISSIONARIES AND THEIR RECIPES

The Jesuit missionaries played an important role in this amalgamation of food. They brought in their recipes, as a result of which, the local cuisine underwent major changes and modifications in order to tastefully accommodate the foreign flavours and ingredients.

So, the next time you taste the chilies and cashews in Goa, remember that they were brought to this land by the Jesuits -- all the way from Brazil via Mozambique.

Therefore, we can proudly say that Goan cuisine is a delicious blend of the diverse Portuguese colonies.

COOKING TECHNIQUES

The Portuguese introduced meats, such as beef and pork, to the Goan menu. Therefore, cooking techniques in Goan kitchens also began to undergo changes since cooking meat was a slightly more time consuming affair.

The food was prepared in the kitchen, which was called cozinha. Most times, it was in clay vessels. The ladle was called doulo in the local language, and its base was of made of a coconut shell while the handle was fashioned from a bamboo stick.

Spices for the meat dishes were finely ground and hand-pounded. And, with the arrival of the Portuguese, vegetables such as potatoes, tomatoes, chillies and coriander were introduced to the Goan kitchen, and soon became a common sight in local homes.

Fancy white and brown glazed ceramic jars, called bharni, were used to store pickles which contained a heavy dose of oil and spices.

Vinegar, obtained from coconut trees, was introduced by the Portuguese so as to give food a very tangy flavour. This souring agent imparts a distinct taste to a dish, and is today supplemented with tamarind water, etc.

A garrafao, with a coir basket around it, was used to store vinegar, which was quite fascinating.

Often, a person would be hired to cook food. This was generally a woman, who was called a randpinn. She would prepare the food along with other helpers.

Many of these randpinns would come together to cook food during feasts and weddings, and being experienced hands, the food prepared by them was absolutely tantalising compared to the meals cooked at home.

The cashew was brought to Goa from Brazil by the Portuguese

CASHEWS FROM BRAZIL

Brazil was an important Portuguese colony, and many things that were introduced in Goa originated in Brazil. The most famous introduction was the cashew.

Today, Goa is the seventh largest producer of cashews in India, and the cashew variety grown in Goa was brought here all the way from Brazil by the Jesuits.

Summer is the best time to find cashews in Goa. During this time, it isn't just the cashew nut that can be relished, but the entire fruit along with the nut is utilised in many local dishes.

Not just that, but people enjoy the chilled summer cashew apple juice, called niro, while the popular local alcoholic drinks, called feni and urrak, have reached far-flung corners of the world.

Goa's delicious 'Cafreal' originated in Mozambique

CAFREAL FROM AFRICA?

Goa's spicy chicken preparation, called Cafreal -- made using coriander leaves, onion, garlic, chillies and much more -- is said to have its origins in Africa.

The dish was part of the cuisine of Mozambique, and was introduced to Goa by the many slaves from that country, who were brought to Goa by the Portuguese.

PAO AND PORTUGAL

The Portuguese introduced oven-baked wheat bread, called pao to Goa, and it was made in local bakeries. The poder (baker/bread man) would bring freshly-baked bread to the people every morning as he cycled around the village with his pao.

In the olden days, sur (toddy) was used to leaven dough and make the bread light and fluffy. These days, however, it has been replaced by yeast since toddy is not easily available due to various reasons.

The humble 'pao' is one of many culinary delights which came to Goa via the Portuguese

BEST PLACES TO TRY

Some of the best places in Goa to try this delectable Indo-Portuguese food are:

1. Hospedaria Venite Restaurant & Bar, Panjim

This restaurant has charming interiors and a warm vibe. You can sit in the balcony and watch life in the city's Latin quarter outside, while enjoying fine Continental, seafood and Portuguese fare.

2. O'Coqueiro, Porvorim

Since 1968, O'Coqueiro has been serving some amazing local fare. The Chicken Cafreal here is one of their best dishes and is known to take Goan cuisine to the next level.

3. Clube Vasco da Gama, Panjim

While the food at Clube Vasco is divine, its ambience takes you back in time to the Portuguese era, while also being rather homely. Don't forget to enjoy the great views of the Garcia de Orta garden overlooking the restaurant. 

Other places worth trying out for their great Goan cuisine are Chef Fernando's Nostalgia in Raia; Martin's Corner in Betalbatim and Viva Panjim, in Panjim.

So, the next time you take a bite from a Goan delicacy, you know that you are getting a taste of the world on your taste buds!

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