When in Goa, the saying should go, one would have to be a Chinese to crave for food from one’s country. The Chinese love fish and so do the locals, the locals love pork and so do the Chinese and that’s where the similarity ends.
Two restaurants – one in South Goa and one in the North – have taken people living in Goa closest to the Chinese palate and both have not only survived, but continue to serve the taste of China as close to the original as possible.
Gaylin in Margao, in the vicinity of the Margao municipal garden started as the first restaurant to serve Chinese food to the people of South Goa. Started by Barnabe Vaz in 1985, with a cook from China, the place still maintains the Mandarin flavour.
“Going to Gaylin was magical in those days because getting a seat was difficult then. It was the much sought after place because the chef at that time had established a special rapport with the clients,” remembers Paulito Fernandes.
“We would start with a drink and slowly shift to soup and another drink and then would follow the starters with another small drink and by the time the main course arrived, the party would begin,” recollects Fernandes.
The Gaylin story has moved from father to daughter and it is Iyola Vaz who is now carrying forward what her elderly father began 39 years ago. “I make sure that the standards set by my father are maintained, especially the quality of the food,” assures Iyola.
Food in the beginning tasted crisply Chinese with the sauces extracting maximum saliva. There is no much change in the ambience and the old timers' taste buds do not seem unsettled.
“Our original Chinese chef left many years back but we have a new chef who has worked in a few five-star hotels in the past and his sauces keep jaws dropping,” assured Iyola.
The restaurant is open from 11.45 am to 3 pm for lunch and from 7 pm to 11 pm for dinner with the first customers normally walking in as the doors open. The seating is set within Chinese décor which is simplistic and offers space to families and couples.
Burnt chili is the signature dish of the chef at Gaylin, with the sauces his secrets and the burnt chili is served with vegetables, meat, fish, prawn, lamb and pork with the price varying with the combination of meats selected. Burnt chili vegetable costs Rs 270 and at the top end is burnt chili lamb at Rs 400.
The secret behind the burnt chili is the secret chili paste and it is the amount of lime and vinegar that leaves a lasting taste. Like all Chinese restaurants rice is no more a riddle at Gaylin, with nan king rice with chicken, prawns or a mix of the two.
“Eighty percent of our clients are locals and most of them are those who were our patrons before and the next generation continues. My father was a stickler for quality and it is paying off now,” asserts daughter Iyola.
For starters, the Gaylin special soup is something special and much sought after because it also has the signature of the new chef. “We start our meals with soup and this is one assured place for good soup,” says Martha as she and her son prepare for a heady dinner.
One should not leave Gaylin without trying Darsaan with honey ice cream, a dessert where the honey entraps on flat noodles. It is something to be enjoyed by all ages.
A meal for two at Gaylin, with drinks, will pinch one’s pocket by Rs 1000 and could be one reason to rush over for another visit.