Pork meat is what coconut feni was to Goa when toddy was extracted by locals, and pigs would be scurrying around the roads.
The production of coconut feni – the drink of Goa – began to stutter due to the decline in toddy tapers, while the pig industry is seeing a decline because fewer pigs are being reared.
But, the taste of pork meat remains alive, and the Goan pork sausage still holds a tale in each bead that's made. The State’s association with chouriço, or sausage in English, is one that has rolled from generations, the taste evolving, not changing, with time.
Close to the railway gate, in Cansaulim, stands a ramshackle shop with tells the taste of sausages through its name – Loja Carne de Porco (which is Portuguese for 'pork meat shop').
Loja Carne de Porco is not a shop that only sells pork meat, but serves pork dishes, each of which has the signature of the Braganza family, presently kept on the pedestal by heir, Caetano.
“I started helping my mother and father when I was 16-years-old. I am 56 now, and the pork industry is seeing an upheaval because of the unavailability of pigs in Goa,” says Braganza, as he prepares sausage bread for a client.
Braganza’s father had first set up shop near the Cansaulim Tinto in the early 1960s. “I do not remember when my father started the shop. I had to shift here because parking was getting to be a problem,” admits Braganza whose easy-going demeanor tells the story of the past.
From 5.30 pm till 8.30 pm, the ‘oinks’ at Loja Carne de Porco can be heard clearest with the demand for sausage bread (which sells at Rs 80), and the soup being the main draw.
Besides sausage bread, Braganza sells sausages in bulk with a string of 100 sausages costing Rs 700. “Pigs are not easily available in Goa, and they are expensive; that is why most of us have to purchase pigs from other states,” discloses Braganza.
The sausages at the loja are not too spicy, have a coarse aroma of chillies and the vinegar gives them the special tang. “I prepare the masala for the sausages, while the rest is done by the boys working for me,” discloses Braganza.
Apart from sausages, Braganza sells Sorpotel and Pork Admass. And, after shifting to the new place four years ago, he has added beef, fish cutlets and chicken snacks to the menu.
“I normally need 30 to 35 pigs every month. Sometimes, more, depending on the order. People from all over Goa come here to buy sausages in bulk,” he admits.
The USP of the place is simple – stick to the basics. “Cooking is about wanting to make the diner have a second helping. That’s when your food is tasty,” says Braganza, as he wryly hands over the second sausage bread to his customer.
“This is our place whenever we are in the mood to eat pork meat. My father used to bring me earlier, and I have continued to come here because the taste of the sausages here is unique,” discloses Queenie from Mormugao.
No alcohol is served at the place, although soft drinks and water are.
“The important thing in life is to realise how much money to make, and how much time is needed to have a good time,” professes Braganza, as he begins packing at around 8.45 pm to enjoy a nice night.
“I normally close by 9 pm,” concludes Braganza as he begins to shut shop.