A treasure trove of Saraswat flavours at Taj Exotica, Goa

The Saraswat cuisine continues to be a sought-after branch of Goa’s culinary legacy. However, apart from a handful of eateries, a few establishments have delved into this culinary treasure trove. 

To fill that void, the quintessentially Goan Specialty Dining - Miguel Arcanjo at Taj Exotica Resort & Spa in Benaulim has collaborated with Saraswat cuisine expert Chef Shubhra Shankhwalker to bring forth some long-forgotten recipes.

The restaurant itself is a breath of fresh air with its calming yet lively azure and white walls. Surrounded by scenic views, the wide windows overlook the green expanse of the resort’s sprawling lawns. You can also take in the majestic views of the Arabian Sea from its alfresco section.

Overall, it’s the perfect ambience to indulge in the scrumptious offerings of the Saraswat Food Festival. And, Chef Shubhra is working at leaving no stone unturned in showcasing authentic cuisine that is true to its roots. 

Right from the start, this delightful feast promises to be a revelation. Sipping on the very refreshing Bindachi Sarbat, made from fresh kokum fruit (not the dried rind), you begin to wonder what other hidden gems you may discover. Every sip of the sarbat is a much-needed respite from the heat. 

Like the sarbat, there are other strictly seasonal delicacies for the curious foodies to sample. And so, apart from the ubiquitous comfort foods like the Prawn Curry and Chicken Xacutti, the seasonals, like Kaazwachi Shaak – a cashew apple curry – and Torachi Uddamethi – made with raw mangoes – find a place in this menu.

Carefully curated with rich aromas and flavours Chef Shubhra says, “The ingredients are unique to our cuisine; for example, many people don’t know that a cashew fruit can make a delicious shaak or curry.” 

Undoubtedly, the taste of these delicacies is unique too, ranging from robust to sublime. Even the prawn curry in the Saraswat-style is very different from what is available generally, it’s a familiar feel but with a difference. 

Coming back to the shaak, the recipe comes from the chef’s mother-in-law, a legacy well-preserved. “A hidden gem, this curry has a strong flavour of the kazu fruit (cashew), sweet and tangy”, says the chef.

Eaten with rice, its sweetness can be balanced out with the accompanying pickles and the spicy traditional Goan papads, locally sourced from her grandmother’s favourite vendors. 

All the delectable preparations available for the festival, as the chef points out, are what a traditional Saraswat household would cook. Be it the Bharile Bangde or stuffed mackerel, with its stuffing of coriander leaves, to the Sungtache Dangar a variant of the prawn cutlet. 

The chef explains, “The Bharile Bangde is quite popular in my home and the Dangars are unlike the ones we have at other places. Usually, they are similar to cutlets but Dangars are supposed to be flat, thin and fried crisp, the taste and texture is thus completely different.” 

For crab lovers, there’s the Kurlyo Fry, again a seasonal delicacy as these are the soft-shell white crabs. Unlike the commonly found rawa fried crabs, these are fried with a rice flour coating, thus lending a peculiar texture and delicious taste. 

Many of these delicacies have been driven to obscurity and the original names have been forgotten. One such delight is the Shepuche Dhonas, a cake made from the dill leaves. “The recipe was passed down by my mother-in-law, and since she didn’t know what it was called, she christened it Dhonas akin to the Pansache (jackfruit) Dhonas,” shares Chef Shubhra. 

With each bite of the Dhonas, you are greeted with a strong flavour complemented by that of the other ingredients including cashew, ghee and the grainy texture of the semolina. For some, this will be a nostalgic trip down memory lane.

DETAILS 

Date: April 13-14th & 27– 28

Time: 7 pm to 11 pm

Venue: Miguel Arcanjo, Goan Speciality Dining at Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Goa

For reservations, contact: +91 9910081259